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Aberdeen
| |
|---|---|
City and council area | |
 Flag of Aberdeen City Council[1] | |
| Nicknames: "Granite City", "The Silver City by Sea", "Oil Capital of Europe" | |
  Aberdeen Aberdeen locality within the Aberdeen City council area | |
  Aberdeen  Aberdeen  Aberdeen | |
| Coordinates: 57°09′N 2°07′W / 57.15°N 2.11°W | |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Country | Scotland |
| Council area | Aberdeen City |
| Lieutenancy area | Aberdeen |
| Earliest Charter | 1179 |
| City status | 1891 |
| Government | |
| • Governing body | Aberdeen City Council |
| • Lord Provost | David Cameron (SNP) |
| • MSPs |
|
| • MPs |
|
| Area | |
| • Locality | 23.4 sq mi (60.7 km2) |
| • Urban | 29.2 sq mi (75.6 km2) |
| • Council area[4] | 72 sq mi (186 km2) |
| Population | |
| • Locality | 198,590 |
| • Density | 8,500/sq mi (3,300/km2) |
| • Urban | 220,690 |
| • Urban density | 7,600/sq mi (2,900/km2) |
| • Metro (2020)[6] | 489,840 |
| • Council area | 224,190 |
| • Council area density | 3,130/sq mi (1,208/km2) |
| • Language(s) | Scots (Doric) English |
| Demonym | Aberdonians |
| GVA | |
| • Metro | £16.064 billion (2021) |
| Time zone | UTC±0 (GMT) |
| • Summer (DST) | UTC+1 (BST) |
| Postcode areas | |
| Area code | 01224 |
| ISO 3166-2 | GB-ABE |
| GSS code | S12000033 |
| OS grid reference | NJ925065 |
| NUTS 3 | UKM50 |
| Primary Airport | Aberdeen Airport |
| Website | aberdeencity |
 | |
| Click the map for an interactive fullscreen view | |
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Aberdeen (/ˌæbərˈdiːn/ ; Scots: Aiberdeen [ˌeːbərˈdin] ; Scottish Gaelic: Obar Dheathain [ˈopəɾ ˈʝɛ.ɪɲ]; Latin: Aberdonia) is a city in North East Scotland, and is the third most populous Scottish city. Historically, Aberdeen was within the historic county of Aberdeenshire, but is now separate from the council area of Aberdeenshire.
Aberdeen is one of Scotland's 32 local government council areas (as Aberdeen City[8]), and has a 2020[update] population estimate of 198,590 for the city,[4] making it the United Kingdom's 39th most populous built-up area, and 224,190 for the wider council area including outlying localities.[5] The city is 93 mi (150 km) northeast of Edinburgh and 398 mi (641 km) north of London, and is the northernmost major city in the United Kingdom. Aberdeen has a long, sandy coastline and features an oceanic climate, with cool summers and mild, rainy winters.[9]
During the mid-18th to mid-20th centuries, Aberdeen's buildings incorporated locally quarried grey granite, which may sparkle like silver because of its high mica content.[10] Since the discovery of North Sea oil in 1969, Aberdeen has been known as the offshore oil capital of Europe.[11] Based upon the discovery of prehistoric villages around the mouths of the rivers Dee and Don, the area around Aberdeen has been thought to have been settled for at least 6,000 years.[12]
Aberdeen received royal burgh status from David I of Scotland (1124–1153),[13] which transformed the city economically. The traditional industries of fishing, paper-making, shipbuilding, and textiles have been overtaken by the oil industry and Aberdeen's seaport. Aberdeen Heliport is one of the busiest commercial heliports in the world,[14] and the seaport is the largest in the north-east part of Scotland.[15] A university town, the city is known for the University of Aberdeen, founded in 1495 as the fifth oldest university in the English-speaking world and located in Old Aberdeen.
In 2012, HSBC named Aberdeen as a leading business hub and one of eight 'super cities' spearheading the UK's economy, marking it as the only city in Scotland so designated.[16] In 2018, Aberdeen was found to be the best city in the UK to start a business in a study released by card payment firm Paymentsense.[17]
History
Early origins
The Aberdeen area has seen human settlement for at least 8,000 years.[12] The city began as two separate burghs: Old Aberdeen at the mouth of the river Don; and New Aberdeen, a fishing and trading settlement, where the Denburn waterway entered the river Dee estuary.[18] The earliest charter was granted by William the Lion in 1179 and confirmed the corporate rights granted by David I.[19]
In 1214, Aberdeen Burgesses were granted a Royal Charter by Alexander II of Scotland giving them the sole right to form a Guild. This body exercised power in the composition of the local Council, and the affairs of the town. The Burgesses of the Guild were an integral part of the council for more than 700 years and played a considerable role in the growth and development of Aberdeen.[20] In 1319, the Great Charter of Robert the Bruce transformed Aberdeen into a property-owning and financially independent community. Granted with it was the nearby Forest of Stocket, whose income formed the basis for the city's Common Good Fund which still benefits Aberdonians.[21][22]
Wars of Scottish Independence
During the Wars of Scottish Independence, Aberdeen was under English rule, so Robert the Bruce laid siege to Aberdeen Castle before destroying it in 1308, followed by executing the English garrison. The city was burned by Edward III of England in 1336, but was rebuilt and extended. The city was strongly fortified to prevent attacks by neighbouring lords, but the gates were removed by 1770.[23]
Aberdeen's medieval council registers survive from 1398 onwards and are exceptional for their quantity and continuity among surviving Scottish burgh records. The earliest eight volumes, from 1398 to 1511, have been included in the UNESCO UK Memory of the World Register, and have been edited in a digital edition.[24]
During the Wars of the Three Kingdoms of 1644 to 1647 the city was plundered by both sides. In 1644, it was taken and ransacked by Royalist troops after the Battle of Aberdeen[25] and two years later it was stormed by a Royalist force under the command of the George Gordon, 2nd Marquis of Huntly.[26] An outbreak of bubonic plague over 1687 and 1688 killed 8.5% of the population, adding to the economic and demographic damage caused by war.[27] In the 18th century, a new Town Hall was built and the first social services appeared with the Aberdeen Infirmary at Woolmanhill in 1739[28] and the Aberdeen Lunatic Asylum in 1800.[29]
Post-Napoleonic depression
The expensive infrastructure works led to the city becoming bankrupt in 1817 during the Post-Napoleonic depression, an economic downturn immediately after the Napoleonic Wars; but the city's prosperity later recovered. The increasing economic importance of Aberdeen and the development of the shipbuilding and fishing industries led to the construction of the present harbour including Victoria Dock and the South Breakwater, and the extension of the North Pier.
Gas street lighting arrived in 1824 and an enhanced water supply appeared in 1830 when water was pumped from the Dee to a reservoir in Union Place. An underground sewer system replaced open sewers in 1865.[22] The city was incorporated in 1891. Although Old Aberdeen has a separate history and still holds its ancient charter, it was annexed by the City of Aberdeen in 1891.[30]
Second World War
Over the course of the Second World War Aberdeen was attacked 32 times by the German Luftwaffe. One of the most devastating attacks was on Wednesday 21 April 1943 when 29 Luftwaffe Dornier 217s flying from Stavanger, Norway attacked the city between the hours of 22:17 and 23:04.[31] A total of 98 civilians and 27 servicemen were killed, along with 12,000 houses damaged, after a mixture of 127 Incendiary, High Explosive and Cluster bombs were dropped on the city in one night.[32]
Two books written in 2018 and 2022 using bombing records held in London identified that unexploded bombs from the 1943 raid were found in the 1950s and 1980s making the bombs dropped 129 in total. Damage from the raid can still be seen in some parts of Aberdeen.
Toponymy
The name given to Aberdeen translates as 'mouth of the river Don', and is recorded as Aberdon in 1172 and Aberden in c. 1180. The first element of the name is the Pictish word aber 'river mouth'. The second element is from the Celtic river goddess Devona.[33]
Aberdeen is usually described as within the historical Pictish territory and became Gaelic-speaking at some time in the medieval period. Old Aberdeen is the approximate location of Aberdon, the first settlement of Aberdeen; this literally means "the mouth of the Don". The Celtic word aber means "river mouth", as in modern Welsh (Aberystwyth, Aberdare, Aberbeeg etc.).[34] The Scottish Gaelic name is Obar Dheathain (variation: Obairreadhain; *obar presumably being a loan from the earlier Pictish; the Gaelic term is inbhir), and in Latin, the Romans referred to the river as Devana. Medieval (or Ecclesiastical) Latin has it as Aberdonia.[35]
Governance and heraldry
Aberdeen is locally governed by Aberdeen City Council, which comprises forty-five councillors who represent the city's wards and is headed by the Lord Provost. The current Lord Provost is David Cameron. From May 2003 until May 2007 the council was run by a Liberal Democrat and Conservative Party coalition. Following the May 2007 local elections, the Liberal Democrats formed a new coalition with the Scottish National Party.[36][37] After a later SNP by-election gain from the Conservatives, this coalition held 28 of the 43 seats. Following the election of 4 May 2017, the council was controlled by a coalition of Scottish Labour, Scottish Conservatives and independent councillors; the Labour councillors were subsequently suspended by Scottish Labour Party leader, Kezia Dugdale.[38] Following Conservative losses in the May 2022 local elections, the Liberal Democrats and SNP agreed to work in partnership, agreed on a policy programme and formed the council's administration.[39]
Aberdeen is represented in the Parliament of the United Kingdom by three constituencies: Aberdeen North and Aberdeen South which are wholly within the Aberdeen City council area, and Gordon, which includes a large area of the Aberdeenshire Council area.[40]
In the Scottish Parliament, the city is represented by three constituencies with different boundaries: Aberdeen Central and Aberdeen Donside are wholly within the Aberdeen City council area. Aberdeen South and North Kincardine includes the North Kincardine ward of Aberdeenshire Council. A further seven MSPs are elected as part of the North East Scotland electoral region. In the European Parliament the city was represented by six MEPs as part of the all-inclusive Scotland constituency.[41]
The arms and banner of the city show three silver towers on red. This motif dates from at least the time of Robert the Bruce and represents the buildings that stood on the three hills of medieval Aberdeen: Aberdeen Castle on Castle Hill (today's Castlegate); the city gate on Port Hill; and a church on St Catherine's Hill (now levelled).[42]
"Bon Accord" is the motto of the city and is French for "Good Agreement". Legend tells that its use dates from a password used by Robert the Bruce during the 14th century Wars of Scottish Independence, when he and his men laid siege to the English-held Aberdeen Castle before destroying it in 1308.[21] It is still widely present in the city, throughout street names, business names and the city's Bon Accord shopping mall.[43]
The shield in the coat of arms is supported by two leopards. A local magazine is called the "Leopard" and, when Union Bridge was widened in the 20th century, small statues of the creature in a sitting position were cast and placed on top of the railing posts (known locally as Kelly's Cats). The city's toast is "Happy to meet, sorry to part, happy to meet again".[44]
Geography
Location and area
Being situated between two river mouths, the city has little natural exposure of bedrock. The small amount of geophysics done, and occasional building-related exposures, combined with small exposures in the banks of the River Don, suggest that it is actually sited on an inlier of Devonian "Old Red" sandstones and silts. The outskirts of the city spread beyond the (inferred) limits of the outlier onto the surrounding metamorphic/ igneous complexes formed during the Dalradian period (approximately 480–600 million years ago) with sporadic areas of igneous Diorite granites to be found, such as that at the Rubislaw quarry which was used to build much of the Victorian parts of the city.[45]
The city extends to 186 km2 (72 sq mi),[46] and includes the former burghs of Old Aberdeen, New Aberdeen, Woodside and the Royal Burgh of Torry to the south of River Dee. In 2022 this gave the city a population density of 1,208 inhabitants per square kilometre (3,130/sq mi).[5] The city is built on many hills, with the original beginnings of the city growing from Castle Hill, St. Catherine's Hill and Windmill Hill.[47] When compared to mainland Europe, Aberdeen is further north than almost all of Denmark and plenty of southern Sweden, being just south of Gothenburg in terms of latitude.[48][49]
Climate
Aberdeen features an oceanic climate (Köppen Cfb), with far milder winter temperatures than one might expect for its northern location. However, statistically speaking, it is still the coldest city in the UK. During the winter, especially throughout December, the length of the day is very short, averaging 6 hours and 41 minutes between sunrise and sunset at the winter solstice.[50] As winter progresses, the length of the day grows fairly quickly, to 8 hours and 20 minutes by the end of January. Around summer solstice, the days will be around 18 hours long, having 17 hours and 55 minutes between sunrise and sunset.[50] During this time of the year marginal nautical twilight lasts the entire night. Temperatures at this time of year hover around 17.0 °C (62.6 °F) during the day in most of the urban area, though nearer 16.0 °C (60.8 °F) directly on the coast, and around 18.0 to 19.0 °C (64.4 to 66.2 °F) in the westernmost suburbs.[51]
Two weather stations collect climate data for the area, Aberdeen/Dyce Airport, and Craibstone. Both are about 4+1⁄2 miles (7 km) to the northwest of the city centre, and given that they are in close proximity to each other, exhibit very similar climatic regimes. Dyce tends to have marginally warmer daytime temperatures year-round owing to its slightly lower elevation, though it is more susceptible to harsh frosts. The coldest temperature to occur in recent years was −16.8 °C (1.8 °F) during December 2010,[52] while the following winter, Dyce set a new February high-temperature station record on 28 February 2012 of 17.2 °C (63.0 °F),[53] and a new March high temperature record of 21.6 °C (70.9 °F) on 25 March 2012.[54]
The average temperature of the sea ranges from 6.6 °C (43.9 °F) in March to 13.8 °C (56.8 °F) in August.[55]
| Climate data for Dyce-Aberdeen (ABZ),[a] elevation: 65 m (213 ft), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1960–present | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 17.2 (63.0) |
17.2 (63.0) |
21.6 (70.9) |
23.7 (74.7) |
24.4 (75.9) |
26.7 (80.1) |
29.8 (85.6) |
29.7 (85.5) |
27.0 (80.6) |
22.1 (71.8) |
18.8 (65.8) |
15.1 (59.2) |
29.8 (85.6) |
| Mean maximum °C (°F) | 12.2 (54.0) |
12.9 (55.2) |
15.4 (59.7) |
17.6 (63.7) |
20.4 (68.7) |
22.9 (73.2) |
24.4 (75.9) |
23.4 (74.1) |
22.1 (71.8) |
17.7 (63.9) |
14.8 (58.6) |
12.5 (54.5) |
25.6 (78.1) |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 6.8 (44.2) |
7.3 (45.1) |
9.1 (48.4) |
11.2 (52.2) |
13.9 (57.0) |
16.3 (61.3) |
18.5 (65.3) |
18.3 (64.9) |
16.1 (61.0) |
12.6 (54.7) |
9.2 (48.6) |
6.9 (44.4) |
12.2 (53.9) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | 3.9 (39.0) |
4.2 (39.6) |
5.6 (42.1) |
7.6 (45.7) |
10.0 (50.0) |
12.7 (54.9) |
14.8 (58.6) |
14.6 (58.3) |
12.6 (54.7) |
9.5 (49.1) |
6.2 (43.2) |
3.9 (39.0) |
8.8 (47.9) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 1.0 (33.8) |
1.1 (34.0) |
2.1 (35.8) |
3.9 (39.0) |
6.0 (42.8) |
9.0 (48.2) |
11.0 (51.8) |
10.8 (51.4) |
9.1 (48.4) |
6.3 (43.3) |
3.1 (37.6) |
0.9 (33.6) |
5.4 (41.6) |
| Mean minimum °C (°F) | −5.4 (22.3) |
−5.1 (22.8) |
−4.2 (24.4) |
−1.8 (28.8) |
−0.2 (31.6) |
3.6 (38.5) |
6.0 (42.8) |
4.8 (40.6) |
2.6 (36.7) |
0.2 (32.4) |
−3.4 (25.9) |
−6.6 (20.1) |
−8.3 (17.1) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −19.3 (−2.7) |
−18.2 (−0.8) |
−15.8 (3.6) |
−6.8 (19.8) |
−4.2 (24.4) |
−0.3 (31.5) |
0.1 (32.2) |
−0.2 (31.6) |
−2.4 (27.7) |
−4.4 (24.1) |
−15.6 (3.9) |
−18.1 (−0.6) |
−19.3 (−2.7) |
| Average precipitation mm (inches) | 67.8 (2.67) |
59.4 (2.34) |
54.4 (2.14) |
57.6 (2.27) |
54.0 (2.13) |
68.9 (2.71) |
70.8 (2.79) |
68.3 (2.69) |
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