South Tyrol Südtirol (German) Alto Adige (Italian) Südtirol (Ladin)
Autonomous province
Autonomous province Bolzano – South Tyrol Autonome Provinz Bozen – Südtirol (German) Provincia autonoma di Bolzano - Alto Adige (Italian) Provinzia Autonoma de Balsan/Bulsan – Südtirol (Ladin)
Flag Coat of arms
Anthem: Bozner Bergsteigerlied (unofficial)
Map highlighting the location of the province of South Tyrol in Italy (in red)
Country	Italy
Region	Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol
Capital(s)	Bolzano
Comuni	116
Government
• Body	Provincial Council
• Governor	Arno Kompatscher (SVP)
Area
• Total	7,399.97 km2 (2,857.14 sq mi)
Population  (1 January 2019)
• Total	531,178
• Density	72/km2 (190/sq mi)
GDP [1]
• Total	€21.603 billion (2015)
• Per capita	€41,568 (2015)
Time zone	UTC+01:00 (CET)
• Summer (DST)	UTC+02:00 (CEST)
Postal code	39XXX
Telephone prefix	0471, 0472, 0473, 0474
Vehicle registration	BZ
HDI (2021)	0.912[2] very high 5th of 21
ISTAT	021
Website	www.provincia.bz.it

South Tyrol^[a] (German: Südtirol, German: [ˈsyːtiˌroːl, ˈzyːttiˌʁoːl] ^ⓘ; Italian: Alto Adige, Italian: [ˈalto ˈaːdidʒe]; Ladin: Südtirol) is an autonomous province in northern Italy. An English translation of the official German and Italian names could be the Autonomous Province of Bolzano – South Tyrol, reflecting the multilingualism and different naming conventions in the area. Together with the autonomous province of Trento, South Tyrol forms the autonomous region of Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol.^[4] The province is the northernmost of Italy, the second largest with an area of 7,400 square kilometres (2,857 sq mi), and has a total population of about 534,000 inhabitants as of 2021.^[5] Its capital and largest city is Bolzano (German: Bozen; Ladin: Balsan or Bulsan).

The province is granted a considerable level of self-government, consisting of a large range of exclusive legislative and executive powers and a fiscal regime that allows it to retain 90% of revenue, while remaining a net contributor to the national budget. As of 2016, South Tyrol is the wealthiest province in Italy and among the wealthiest in the European Union.

In the wider context of the European Union, the province is one of the three members of the Tyrol–South Tyrol–Trentino Euroregion, which corresponds almost exactly to the historical region of Tyrol.^[6] The other members are the Austrian federal state Tyrol to the north and east, and the Italian autonomous province of Trento to the south.

According to the 2011 census, 62.3% of the population used German as their first language (standard German in the written form and the South Tyrolean dialect of Austro-Bavarian in the spoken form); 23.4% of the population spoke Italian, mainly in and around the two largest cities (Bolzano, with an Italian-speaking majority, and Meran, with a slight German-speaking majority); 4.1% spoke Ladin, a Rhaeto-Romance language; 10.2% of the population (mainly recent immigrants) spoke another native language in addition to Italian and German. Of 116 South Tyrolean municipalities, 103 have a German-speaking, eight a Ladin-speaking, and five an Italian-speaking majority.^[7] The Italianization of South Tyrol and the settlement of Italians from the rest of Italy after 1918 significantly modified local demographics.^[8][9]

Name

South Tyrol (occasionally South Tirol) is the term most commonly used in English for the province,^[10] and its usage reflects that it was created from a portion of the southern part of the historic County of Tyrol, a former state of the Holy Roman Empire and crown land of the Austrian Empire of the Habsburgs. German and Ladin speakers usually refer to the area as Südtirol; the Italian equivalent Sudtirolo (sometimes parsed Sud Tirolo^[11]) is becoming increasingly common.^[12]

Alto Adige (literally translated in English: "Upper Adige"), one of the Italian names for the province, is also used in English.^[13] The term had been the name of political subdivisions along the Adige River in the time of Napoleon Bonaparte,^[14][15] who created the Department of Alto Adige, part of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy. It was reused as the Italian name of the current province after its post-World War I creation, and was a symbol of the subsequent forced Italianization of South Tyrol.^[16]

The official name of the province today in German is Autonome Provinz Bozen — Südtirol. German speakers usually refer to it not as a Provinz, but as a Land (like the Länder of Germany and Austria).^[17] Provincial institutions are referred to using the prefix Landes-, such as Landesregierung (state government) and Landeshauptmann (governor).^[18] The official name in Italian is Provincia autonoma Bolzano — Alto Adige, in Ladin Provinzia autonoma Bulsan — Südtirol.^[19][20]

History

Annexation by Italy

South Tyrol as an administrative entity originated during the First World War. The Allies promised the area to Italy in the Treaty of London of 1915 as an incentive to enter the war on their side. Until 1918, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian princely County of Tyrol, but this almost completely German-speaking territory was occupied by Italy at the end of the war in November 1918 and was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1919. The province as it exists today was created in 1926 after an administrative reorganization of the Kingdom of Italy, and was incorporated together with the province of Trento into the newly created region of Venezia Tridentina ("Trentine Venetia").

With the rise of Italian Fascism, the new regime made efforts to bring forward the Italianization of South Tyrol. The German language was banished from public service, German teaching was officially forbidden, and German newspapers were censored (with the exception of the fascistic Alpenzeitung). The regime also favoured immigration from other Italian regions.

The subsequent alliance between Adolf Hitler and Benito Mussolini declared that South Tyrol would not follow the destiny of Austria, which had been annexed by Nazi Germany. Instead the dictators agreed that the German-speaking population be transferred to German-ruled territory or dispersed around Italy, but the outbreak of the Second World War prevented them from fully carrying out their plans.^[21] Every citizen was given the choice to give up their German cultural identity and stay in fascist Italy, or to leave their homeland for Nazi Germany to retain their cultural identity. This resulted in the division of South Tyrolese families.

In this tense relationship for the population, Walter Caldonazzi from Mals was part of the resistance group around the priest Heinrich Maier, which passed plans and information about production facilities for V-1 rockets, V-2 rockets, Tiger tanks, Messerschmitt Bf 109, and Messerschmitt Me 163 Komet and other aircraft to the Allies. The group planned for an independent Austria with a monarchical form of government after the war, which would include Austria, Bavaria and South Tyrol.^[22][23]

In 1943, when the Italian government signed an armistice with the Allies, the region was occupied by Nazi Germany, which reorganised it as the Operation Zone of the Alpine Foothills and put it under the administration of Gauleiter Franz Hofer. The region was de facto annexed to the German Reich (with the addition of the province of Belluno) until the end of the war. Italian rule was restored in 1945 as the Nazi regime ended.

Gruber–De Gasperi Agreement

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After the war, the Allies decided that the province would remain a part of Italy, under the condition that the German-speaking population be granted a significant level of self-government. Italy and Austria negotiated an agreement in 1946, recognizing the rights of the German minority. Alcide De Gasperi, Italy's prime minister, a native of Trentino, wanted to extend the autonomy to his fellow citizens. This led to the creation of the region called Trentino-Alto Adige/Tiroler Etschland. The Gruber–De Gasperi Agreement of September 1946 was signed by the Italian and Austrian Foreign Ministers, creating the autonomous region of Trentino-South Tyrol, consisting of the autonomous provinces of Trentino and South Tyrol. German and Italian were both made official languages, and German-language education was permitted once more. Still Italians were the majority in the combined region.

This, together with the arrival of new Italian-speaking immigrants, led to strong dissatisfaction among South Tyrolese, which culminated in terrorist acts perpetrated by the Befreiungsausschuss Südtirol (BAS – Liberation Committee of South Tyrol). In the first phase, only public edifices and fascist monuments were targeted. The second phase was bloodier, costing 21 lives (15 members of Italian security forces, two civilians, and four terrorists).

Südtirolfrage

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The South Tyrolean Question (Südtirolfrage) became an international issue. As the implementation of the post-war agreement was deemed unsatisfactory by the Austrian government, it became a cause of significant friction with Italy and was taken up by the United Nations in 1960. A fresh round of negotiations took place in 1961 but proved unsuccessful, partly because of the campaign of terrorism.

The issue was resolved in 1971, when a new Austro-Italian treaty was signed and ratified. It stipulated that disputes in South Tyrol would be submitted for settlement to the International Court of Justice in The Hague, that the province would receive greater autonomy within Italy, and that Austria would not interfere in South Tyrol's internal affairs. The new agreement proved broadly satisfactory to the parties involved, and the separatist tensions soon eased.

The autonomous status granted in 1972 has resulted in a considerable level of self-government,^[24] and also allows the entity to retain almost 90% of all levied taxes.^[25]

Autonomy

In 1992, Italy and Austria officially ended their dispute over the autonomy issue on the basis of the agreement of 1972.^[26]

The extensive self-government^[24] provided by the current institutional framework has been advanced as a model for settling interethnic disputes and for the successful protection of linguistic minorities.^[27] This is among the reasons why the Ladin municipalities of Cortina d'Ampezzo/Anpezo, Livinallongo del Col di Lana/Fodom and Colle Santa Lucia/Col have asked in a referendum to be detached from Veneto and reannexed to the province, from which they were separated under the fascist government.^[28]

Euroregion

In 1996, the Euroregion Tyrol-South Tyrol-Trentino was formed between the Austrian state of Tyrol and the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Trentino. The boundaries of the association correspond to the old County of Tyrol. The aim is to promote regional peace, understanding and cooperation in many areas. The region's assemblies meet together as one on various occasions, and have set up a common liaison office with the European Union in Brussels.

Geography

South Tyrol is located at the northernmost point in Italy. The province is bordered by Austria to the east and north, specifically by the Austrian federal states Tyrol and Salzburg, and by the Swiss canton of Graubünden to the west. The Italian provinces of Belluno, Trentino, and Sondrio border to the southeast, south, and southwest, respectively.

The landscape itself is mostly cultivated with different types of shrubs and forests and is highly mountainous.

Entirely located in the Alps, the province's landscape is dominated by mountains. The highest peak is the Ortler (3,905 metres, 12,812 ft) in the far west, which is also the highest peak in the Eastern Alps outside the Bernina Range. Even more famous are the craggy peaks of the Dolomites in the eastern part of the region.

The following mountain groups are (partially) in South Tyrol. All but the Sarntal Alps are on the border with Austria, Switzerland, or other Italian provinces. The ranges are clockwise from the west and for each the highest peak is given that is within the province or on its border.

Name	Highest peak (German/Italian)	metres	feet
Ortler Alps	Ortler/Ortles	3,905	12,811
Sesvenna Range	Muntpitschen/Monpiccio	3,162	10,374
Ötztal Alps	Weißkugel/Palla Bianca	3,746	12,291
Stubai Alps	Wilder Freiger/Cima Libera	3,426	11,241
Sarntal Alps	Hirzer/Punta Cervina	2,781	9,124
Zillertal Alps	Hochfeiler/Gran Pilastro	3,510	11,515
Hohe Tauern	Dreiherrnspitze/Picco dei Tre Signori	3,499	11,480
Eastern Dolomites	Dreischusterspitze/Punta Tre Scarperi	3,152	10,341
Western Dolomites	Langkofel/Sassolungo	3,181	10,436

Located between the mountains are many valleys, where the majority of the population lives.

Administrative divisions

The province is divided into eight districts (German: Bezirksgemeinschaften, Italian: comunità comprensoriali), one of them being the chief city of Bolzano. Each district is headed by a president and two bodies called the district committee and the district council. The districts are responsible for resolving intermunicipal disputes and providing roads, schools, and social services such as retirement homes.

The province is further divided into 116 Gemeinden or comuni.^[29]

Districts

District (German/Italian)	Capital (German/Italian)	Area	Inhabitants[29]
Bozen/Bolzano	Bozen/Bolzano	52 km2	107,436
Burggrafenamt/Burgraviato	Meran/Merano	1,101 km2	97,315
Pustertal/Val Pusteria	Bruneck/Brunico	2,071 km2	79,086
Überetsch-Unterland/Oltradige-Bassa Atesina	Neumarkt/Egna	424 km2	71,435
Eisacktal/Valle Isarco	Brixen/Bressanone	624 km2	49,840
Salten-Schlern/Salto-Sciliar	Bozen/Bolzano	1,037 km2	48,020
Vinschgau/Val Venosta	Schlanders/Silandro	1,442 km2	35,000
Wipptal/Alta Valle Isarco	Sterzing/Vipiteno	650 km2	18,220

Largest municipalities

German name	Italian name	Ladin name	Inhabitants[29]
Bozen	Bolzano	Balsan, Bulsan	107,724
Meran	Merano	Maran	40,926
Brixen	Bressanone	Persenon, Porsenù	22,423
Leifers	Laives		18,097
Bruneck	Brunico	Bornech, Burnech	16,636
Eppan an der Weinstraße	Appiano sulla Strada del Vino		14,990
Lana	Lana		12,468
Kaltern an der Weinstraße	Caldaro sulla Strada del Vino		7,512
Ritten	Renon		7,507
Sarntal	Sarentino		6,863
Kastelruth	Castelrotto	Ciastel	6,456
Sterzing	Vipiteno		6,306
Schlanders	Silandro		6,014
Ahrntal	Valle Aurina		5,876
Naturns	Naturno		5,440
Sand in Taufers	Campo Tures		5,230
Latsch	Laces		5,145
Klausen	Chiusa	Tluses, Tlüses	5,134
Mals	Malles		5,050
Neumarkt	Egna		4,926
Algund	Lagundo		4,782
St. Ulrich	Ortisei	Urtijëi	4,606
Ratschings	Racines		4,331
Terlan	Terlano		4,132

Climate

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Climatically, South Tyrol may be divided into five distinct groups:

The Adige valley area, with cold winters (24-hour averages in January of about 0 °C (32 °F)) and warm summers (24-hour averages in July of about 23 °C (73 °F)), usually classified as humid subtropical climate — Cfa. It has the driest and sunniest climate of the province. The main city in this area is Bolzano.

The midlands, between 300 and 900 metres (980 and 2,950 ft), with cold winters (24-hour averages in January between −3 and 1 °C (27 and 34 °F)) and mild summers (24-hour averages in July between 15 and 21 °C (59 and 70 °F)). This is a typical oceanic climate, classified as Cfb. It is usually wetter than the subtropical climate, and very snowy during the winters. During the spring and autumn, there is an extended foggy season, but fog may occur even on summer mornings. Main towns in this area are Meran, Bruneck, Sterzing, and Brixen. Near the lakes in higher lands (between 1,000 and 1,400 metres (3,300 and 4,600 ft)) the humidity may make the climate in these regions milder during winter, but also cooler in summer, making it more similar to a subpolar oceanic climate, Cfc.

The alpine valleys between 900 and 1,400 metres (3,000 and 4,600 ft), with a typically humid continental climate — Dfb, covering the largest part of the province. The winters are usually very cold (24-hour averages in January between −8 and −3 °C (18 and 27 °F)), and the summers, mild with averages between 14 and 19 °C (57 and 66 °F). It is a very snowy climate; snow may occur from early October to April or even May. Main municipalities in this area are Urtijëi, Badia, Sexten, Toblach, Stilfs, Vöran, and Mühlwald.

The alpine valleys between 1,400 and 1,700 metres (4,600 and 5,600 ft), with a subarctic climate — Dfc, with harsh winters (24-hour averages in January between −9 and −5 °C (16 and 23 °F)) and cool, short, rainy and foggy summers (24-hour averages in July of about 12 °C (54 °F)). These areas usually have five months below the freezing point, and snow sometimes occurs even during the summer, in September. This climate is the wettest of the province, with large rainfalls during the summer, heavy snowfalls during spring and fall. The winter is usually a little drier, marked by freezing and dry weeks, although not sufficiently dry to be classified as a Dwc climate. Main municipalities in this area are Corvara, Sëlva, Santa Cristina Gherdëina.

The highlands above 1,700 metres (5,600 ft), with an alpine tundra climate, ET, which becomes an ice cap climate, EF, above 3,000 metres (9,800 ft). The winters are cold, but sometimes not as cold as the higher valleys' winters. In January, most of the areas at 2,000 metres (6,600 ft) have an average temperature of about −5 °C (23 °F), while in the valleys at about 1,600 metres (5,200 ft), the mean temperature may be as low as −8 or −9 °C (18 or 16 °F). The higher lands, above 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) are usually extremely cold, with averages of about −14 °C (7 °F) during the coldest month, January.

Geology

The periadriatic seam, which separates the Southern Alps from the Central Alps, runs through South Tyrol in a southwest–northeast direction. In South Tyrol at least three of the four main structural elements of the Alps come to light: the Southern Alpine comes to light south of the periadriatic suture, the Eastern Alpine north of it, and in the northern part of the country, east of the Brenner Pass, the Tauern window, in which the Peninsular and, according to some authors, the Helvetic are visible.^[30]

In South Tyrol, the following structure can be roughly recognized: The lowest floor forms the crystalline basement. About 280 million years ago, in the Lower Permian, multiple magmatic events occurred. At that time the Brixen granite was formed at the northern boundary of the Southern Alps, and at about the same time, further south in the Bolzano area, there was strong volcanic activity that formed the Adige Valley volcanic complex. In the Upper Permian a period began in which sedimentary rocks were formed. At first, these were partly clastic sediments, among which the Gröden sandstone is found. In the Triassic, massive carbonate platforms of dolomitic rocks then formed; this process was interrupted in the Middle Triassic by a brief but violent phase of volcanic activity.

In South Tyrol, the Eastern Alps consist mainly of metamorphic rocks, such as gneisses or mica schists, with occasional intercalations of marble and Mesozoic sedimentary rocks with metamorphic overprint (e.g., in the Ortler or southwest of the Brenner). Various metamorphic rocks are found in the Tauern Window, such as Hochstegen marble (as in Wolfendorn), Grünschiefer (as in Hochfeiler), or rocks of the Zentralgneiss (predominantly in the area of the Zillertal Main Ridge).^[31]

The province of South Tyrol has placed numerous geological natural monuments under protection. Among the best known are the Bletterbach Gorge, a 12 km (7½ mile) long canyon in the municipality of Aldein, and the Ritten Earth Pyramids, which are the largest in Europe with a height of up to 30 metres (98 ft).^[32]

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